Tasting Tour: What to Eat and See in Modena in One Day

Introduction: Morning in Modena

The day begins softly in Modena. As the sun warms the cobblestones of Via Emilia, shutters creak open above ochre walls, and the scent of brewing espresso wafts through colonnaded streets. Church bells ring from the Romanesque Ghirlandina Tower, casting long shadows over the Piazza Grande, still hushed except for the clink of ceramic cups and murmured

greetings of early risers.

Modena is a city that whispers rather than shouts. Here, beauty is quiet and constant — found in a perfectly aged Parmigiano wheel, a gleaming balsamic barrel, or the sheen on a vintage Maserati. This is the land of craftsmanship, where both fast cars and slow food are born of obsession, passed from hand to hand with reverence.

But Modena doesn't just honor tradition — it lives it. You’ll find it in every forkful of tortellini in brodo, every drizzle of aceto balsamico tradizionale, every seasonal treat laid out behind bakery glass. One day here is enough to fall under its spell — if you walk with appetite and curiosity.

A Taste of the Place - What to Eat in Modena

Modena lies in the heart of the Po Valley, where fertile soil and foggy winters have shaped an agricultural rhythm that pulses through the city’s cuisine. It's the capital of aceto balsamico tradizionale, that dark elixir aged in wood for over a decade — not to be

confused with the supermarket version. True balsamico is DOP-protected and never rushed. Sweet, complex, and syrupy, it’s used sparingly, often ceremonially.

Equally revered is Parmigiano Reggiano, born just outside town, and prosciutto di Modena, less famous than Parma’s but rich with a smoky nuance. Then there are the handmade pastas: tortellini — tiny, plump with pork and mortadella — are served simply in capon broth, while tagliatelle al ragù holds the legacy of Emilia’s robust kitchen traditions.

Then there are tigelle — small, round flatbreads once baked between terracotta tiles, now griddled to a perfect golden brown. Traditionally served in a warm basket alongside gnocco fritto, they’re split open and filled with lardo, prosciutto, stracchino, or a spoonful of pesto modenese, a garlicky lard-based spread that’s pure Emilia comfort. In Modena, bread isn’t just a side — it’s an essential, edible vessel of tradition.

And while Modena has become globally associated with the culinary temple of Osteria Francescana, helmed by Massimo Bottura, its everyday food culture remains grounded, generous, and proudly local. This is a place where markets bustle, trattorias fill at lunch, and families still roll pasta by hand.

The Walking Tour

📍 Breakfast: Pasticceria Remondini - Via Emilia San Pietro, 14

Start your day like a Modenese — standing at the marble counter of this elegant, old-world bar, where the brioches are golden and buttery and the cappuccino comes with just the right dusting of cocoa. Don’t miss the ricciolina, a flaky pastry twisted with almond paste, or a bensone, the local breakfast cake often dunked into caffè latte.

📍 Piazza Grande + Ghirlandina Tower

A few steps away lies the UNESCO-listed heart of Modena: the Duomo, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, and the soaring Ghirlandina Tower. Climb the steps for a bird’s-eye view of terracotta rooftops and misty countryside.

📍 Mercato Albinelli - Via Luigi Albinelli, 13

Mid-morning, dive into Modena’s soul: the Mercato Albinelli, open since 1931. Beneath its iron-and-glass canopy, find stalls bursting with Parmigiano wheels, salumi, and gleaming jars of balsamico tradizionale. Taste a sliver of ciccioli, or pick up fresh borlenghi (a savory Modenese crepe). Chat with vendors who know their products by heart.

📍 Snack Stop: Enoteca Compagnia del Taglio - Via Taglio, 12

Before lunch, pause for a glass of Lambrusco Grasparossa, dark, frothy, and refreshingly dry. Pair it with a few slices of culatello or aged coppa. This chic little enoteca doubles as a deli — perfect for edible souvenirs.

📍 Lunch: Trattoria Aldina - Via Luigi Albinelli, 40

You’d almost miss it — upstairs through an unmarked door above the market — but inside, it’s all wood-paneled warmth and worn linens. If by this stop, you are still wondering 'what to eat in Modena', you won't be short of choices here. The menu changes daily, but if tortellini in brodo or tagliatelle al ragù are available, don’t hesitate. Finish with zuppa inglese or a humble but perfect slice of torta tenerina.

📍 Afternoon: Palazzo Ducale + Giardino Ducale Estense

Stroll toward the Palazzo Ducale, a grand Baroque structure once home to the Este Dukes. Today it houses the military academy, but its façade alone is worth the walk. Continue to the Giardino Ducale Estense, a quiet park ideal for a digestivo stroll beneath the lime trees.

📍 Dolce: Pasticceria Gollini - Corso Canalchiaro, 42

Time for a sweet pause. Try their amaretti morbidi — soft, almond-rich cookies — or the seasonal torta di tagliatelle, a lattice-topped specialty made with pasta and custard. Ask for a coffee to linger a little longer.

📍 Aperitivo: Mon Cafè - Piazza Roma, 9

On a lively piazza facing the Ducal Palace, Mon Cafè offers an aperitivo worth slowing down for. Order a Spritz al Lambrusco (yes, it's a thing) or a Negroni sbagliato, and let the

people-watching begin. Plates of olives, Parmigiano, and tiny sandwiches arrive unbidden.

Order a Spritz al Lambrusco — Modena’s playful twist on the Venetian classic, where bitter Aperol meets the juicy sparkle of local red — or a Negroni sbagliato. It’s bubbly, unexpected, and best sipped slowly as the sky softens and plates of Parmigiano and olives appear.

📍 Dinner: Osteria Stallo del Pomodoro - Via Donzi, 7

Warm, convivial, and deeply Modenese, this osteria balances tradition with creativity. Start with gnocco fritto and tigelle paired with lardo and prosciutto, then try zampone with lentils or the seasonal risotto all’aceto balsamico. House Lambrusco flows freely, and the staff treat you like old friends.

Open the walking tour with Google Maps

Closing Reflection

As twilight settles over Modena, the city glows gold — its palazzi blush in the last light, and the chatter in trattorias rises like steam from bowls of brodo. The streets, polished by centuries of footsteps, shimmer beneath hanging lamps. There’s a stillness to the night here, not of silence, but of satisfaction — of a day spent not chasing but savoring.

Modena is a city that doesn’t beg to be seen. It rewards the attuned — those who notice the fragrance of fermenting grapes, the hand-folded edges of tortellini, the way locals greet their butcher by name. One day is never enough, but it’s enough to understand: this is a place where food is not just consumed, but cherished.

And tomorrow? You’ll crave it all again.